 |
Marian Burros |
Marian Burros, a journalist and cookbook author whose reporting "gave new urgency to safety and health issues regarding food," died September 20, the New York Times reported. She was 92. As food editor of the Washington Star and the Washington Post in the 1970s, Burros "made consumer protection and food safety topics a focus, expanding the boundaries of traditional women's-page food writing to include not just recipes but also reporting on nutrition, truth in advertising and government policy."
Marion Nestle, an emeritus professor of nutrition, food studies, and public health at New York University, noted that Burros "was hugely ahead of her time in writing about the importance of food choices that not only improve health but also are sustainable and protect the environment. She was writing about the politics of food long before anyone dreamed that a food movement might exist."
After graduating from Wellesley College with an English degree in 1954, Burros and Lois Levine, a friend, printed a collection of their home recipes on a mimeograph machine and sold it to local bookstores and through Wellesley's clubs nationwide. The collection was eventually published by Collier Books as Elegant but Easy: A Cookbook for Hostesses (1961), which sold half a million copies. A revised and updated version, The New Elegant but Easy Cookbook, was released in 1998.
She also collaborated with Levine on Second Helpings (1963) and Freeze With Ease (1965). Burros's own books include The Summertime Cookbook: Elegant but Easy Dining Indoors and Out (1972), Pure and Simple: Delicious Recipes for Additive-Free Cooking (1978), Eating Well Is the Best Revenge (1995), and Cooking for Comfort (2003).
Burros began writing a food column for Maryland News in 1962, and went on to become food editor at the Washington Daily News and the Washington Star before the Washington Post hired her as its food editor in 1974. She joined the Times in 1981 and continued to employ her approach that combined recipe writing with investigative reporting.
"She might offer a recipe for, say, Martha Washington's Great Cake, usually in the weekly De Gustibus column, which she took over in 1983, while reporting on a sodium labeling bill being debated in Congress or regulatory battles over the wording of federal dietary guidelines," the Times wrote.
Her plum torte was one of the most popular recipes in the history of the newspaper. "It is beyond understanding why fans of the recipe do not just save it from year to year, instead of depending on its appearance in this column," she wrote when the torte ended its seven-year run in 1989. "Yet one of this year's requests read, 'Isn't it about time for the plum torte recipe?' "
Burros retired in 2008, but continued writing freelance articles. "Her reporting made her a leading voice in the rising consumer movement. She was known as a ruthless interrogator of food industry claims and a highly skeptical reader of ingredient labels," the Times noted.
"I saw so many things over a period of time that made me think that all was not right in the world of food," she told Wellesley magazine in 2016. "There was a lot of fraud, a lot of cover-ups, and I wanted people to have all the facts so that they could make informed decisions."